Chemical peels play a significant role in skin rejuvenation and is a powerful tool used by doctors, dermatologists and aestheticians all over the world. The idea behind chemical peels date back to Cleopatra's era where she bathed regularly in sour milk to enhance the appearance of her skin, unaware of the fact that the active ingredient responsible for  her skin rejuvenation was lactic acid. Today, Alpha Hydroxy acids and other fruity acids have become extremely popular for cosmetic use as their remarkable anti-aging effects have been established.

What is a chemical peel?

A chemical peel is a technique that improves the skin's texture and appearance by applying a chemical solution to the skin which destroys the outer damaged layers. It then creates a healing response at the lower layers of the skin that stimulates the production of elastin and collagen which is responsible for the healthy regrowth of the new epidermis. This results in smoother, radiant and younger looking skin.

These peels achieve-

• improvement in the appearance of fine lines
• softening of acne scars
• evening of pigmentation irregularities
• reduction of skin pore size
• improved skin tone
• enhanced skin clarity
• general maintenance of healthy, rejuvenated skin

Are you a suitable candidate for a chemical peel?

The ideal chemical peel patient is in good, physical health and has a thorough understanding of the treatment process, outcome and risks involved. If you suffer from acne, acne scarring, sun-damaged skin, uneven pigmentation, or you want to improve your skin tone and texture, wrinkles and fine lines and the general health of your skin, you will make a good candidate for chemical peeling. Patients who have been treated with systemic isotretinoin (Accutane) within a year or two are not good candidates for chemical peels, as well as patients who suffer regularly from fever blisters.

Are all chemical Peels the same?

There are many different peel solutions that can be used in varying degrees and strengths. The most common and effective exfoliation agents on the market are Alpha Hydroxy Acids (glycolic acid), Beta Hydroxy Acids ( salicylic acid), Tricholoracetic Acid (TCA) and Phenol. These are categorized according to their concentrations and the resulting depth of the peel on the skin into superficial (also know as light), medium and deep peels.

Superficial Chemical peels (light peels)

Superficial peels are most often achieved with the use of Alpha Hydroxy acids (AHA) that is derived from naturally occurring fruit acids. These include glycolic, lactic, tartaric, citric and malic acid. The most popular AHA used as a medical strength peel is glycolic acid, which comes from sugar cane. The glycolic acid formulations can be applied in varied concentrations and strengths, ranging from 20% , 35%, 50%, 70% and even stronger. The strength of the peel also depends on the Ph of the solution, a Ph below 3.5 is considered very strong and should be overseen by a physician. Skin care products containing AHA's usually contains strengths of 3-15% AHA's and gradually exfoliates the skin over several weeks. These products are good to use as a pre-peel regime to maximize the effects of the higher concentration peel.

Alpha Hydroxy acid peels are very effective in improving the skin's texture, reducing acne and acne scarring,it improves the look of fine lines and wrinkles, lightens skin discolorations and gives the skin a radiant and healthy appearance. Because a superficial peel does not penetrate the skin very deeply, repeated treatments may be necessary to achieve and maintain a good result and the treatments should be spaced between 3-5 weeks. Several superficial to medium depth peels can achieve the same results as a deep peel, but with a shorter recovery time and with less complications afterwards.

The most common side effects of AHA peels are irritation, which include redness, burning, itching, blistering and frosting (whitening of the skin). Take note that after a stronger concentration peel, these are common after effects followed by peeling and flaking of the skin. Another side effect of AHA peels are increased sensitivity to the sun. Although it works well to improve sun damage to the skin, it also at the same time makes the skin more susceptible to it. It is extremely important to wear a good quality sunscreen (apply it twice daily – once in the morning and again at noon) during treatments.

 

 

Medium-depth Chemical peels

The medium-depth chemical peel penetrates deeper into the epidermis than the superficial chemical peel. The active ingredient used in medium-depth peels are Trichloroacetic acid (TCA), normally in concentrations of 20%-35%. Concentrations higher than 35% is known to penetrate into the reticular dermis, and is not recommended because of the high risk of scarring involved. When TCA is applied during treatments, it produces a frost or whitening of the skin, known as frosting. Afterwards a superficial crust forms over the treated area and flakes within 3-7 days. The new skin may be reddish for a while but it will dissipate within a week. The average healing time for a medium chemical peel is 2 weeks.

Medium peels has the same benefits of a superficial peel. It may be more effective for deeper wrinkles, it improves acne scars and lightens dark spots. The results

can appear more rapidly and are more prominent than a superficial peel. The drawbacks are that there is more irritation to the skin and skin appears to have severe sunburn for a week or more, thus requiring the patient to stay at home for a a while. The patient's skin condition and overall health determines if they are a good candidate for TCA peels and also what strength and depth to do it at. The spacing in between TCA treatments are normally 2-4 months depending on the depth and strength.

Deep Chemical Peels

A Phenol peel is the deepest and the strongest chemical peel. It is used to treat severe aged skin with deep and coarse wrinkles, especially the ones around the chin and mouth area and it also improves extremely sun-damaged and pigmented skin. Effects of a deep chemical peel are long-lasting, it can last up to 20 years, and the results can be dramatic.

There are significant risks and side-effects involved in Phenol peels one has to consider. The recovery time for deep chemical peels are the longest and most uncomfortable. One is advised to take off about 2 weeks from work in order to recover. During this time, the patient will experience redness, swelling, blistering, oozing and discomfort. A crust will form over the face which will start to peel and flake off over the following couple of days. The new revealing skin may appear pink or red for a couple of weeks, during which proper sun protection is vital for a successful recovery. Two weeks after the treatment, the discoloration can be covered with make-up. Proper post-treatment care is extremely important to avoid unwanted side-effects. Avoid going into the sun for a couple of months after the treatment, do not pick or scratch the skin when it crusts and flakes and use an intensely rich and moisturizing cream to nourish the skin.

More severe side-effects include scarring, permanently pale skin, uneven skin pigmentation and an inability to tan. If you are considering a phenol peel, make sure you go to a reputable and trusted plastic surgeon in your area. A deep chemical peel, if done correctly and looked after properly, can take years off your face and will provide you with dramatic rejuvenation.

Are you a suitable candidate for a chemical peel?

The ideal chemical peel patient is in good, physical health and has a thorough understanding of the treatment process, outcome and risks involved. If you suffer from acne, acne scarring, sun-damaged skin, uneven pigmentation, or you want to improve your skin tone and texture, wrinkles and fine lines and the general health of your skin, you will make a good candidate for chemical peeling. Patients who have been treated with systemic isotretinoin (Accutane) within a year or two are not good candidates for chemical peels, as well as patients who suffer regularly from fever blisters.

 

 

How to ensure optimal results from your chemical peel

There is several things that you can do as a patient to maximize the outcome of your chemical peel. A strict skincare regimen, with the proper products containing glycolic acid, will properly prepare your skin before the treatment and will maintain a good working balance between treatments. Using these products will strengthen the skin's ability to tolerate the treatment and higher concentrations of solutions.

Your doctor will provide you with more information on the right product for you.

It is recommended to stop smoking a couple of days before and after treatment to avoid the free radicals penetrating the sensitive skin. Smoking, together with exposure to UV light, destroys the support collagen and elastic fibres of the skin resulting in dull, pasty and unhealthy skin.

After and during treatment it is crucial to use a good quality sunscreen (ask your doctor for recommendations) and to apply it at least twice a day and more if one is exposed to the sun. It cannot be stressed enough that exposure to sun during and after chemical peel treatment could lead to severe damaging effects and unwanted pigmentation. It is important to take note that sun-damage and cigarette smoking are the two leading factors in aging skin and avoiding them is vital for proper treatment.

If you are interested in chemical peel treatments, the next step is to make an appointment with your doctor for a proper evaluation of your skin and for further information and treatment.

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